Spring cleaning

Sorry for the huge time lapse between posts. A lot of work has me pinned down and running to catch up.

Preparing for the summer travel season, but without my rig. So I thought it was time to clean it. Finally found the rotting grape vine that was pestering and fuming up my van for months. I think they are from Texas. :)

Boxes for the foundation are starting to come in. I think its time to call santa, cause no way can I get all this gear to europe in one trip. WOW. I will get some pictures of next week. Maybe a vid with time lapse.

I thought this was pretty cool. Ara ( below ) and I went to the Jazz fest in Montreal. 1.5 million people attend the thousands of free shows in the streets for 9 days. This was posted up on the top of the Place des Arts building. Translated... The world is a vast theatre, and we are all actors in it.

Nothing but sex and drugs in Montreal.

Rock and Roll mobile museum. TIGHT!

 Prices are out of control. Can anyone tell me why we sent kids off to the Mideast  to die?

 

Chalk and too much time on my hands.

My nephew and niece, and a day at the trailer-trash amusement park.

The office.

POST!

Venting

Just need to vent.

So Monsanto is feeding our kids plastic, Coca Cola is selling tap water as aquafina, dentyne is using manure as a sweetener in its gum, you spend 2 hours a day breathing in the exhaust of your office mates in traffic, drink back our own viagra in Manhattans water supply after urinating it in the toilet, invade countries for oil, sell weapons to both sides of waring clans in north africa, spy on me with PRISM when I send an email or make a call, shove your hands in my empty pockets after I pay my taxes so you can fly around in private airplanes, take a 20 million dollar pay check while your average wal-mart worker makes 5.50$ an hour with no benefits and the product they sell are made by 4 year olds chained to a cement block in china, where they can't afford anything they are making, even on pro-deal. Oh and they poop in the same river the cows that your butcher kills drinks from on a record breaking heatwave in the middle of the Arctic, that now is a oil infested war-zone waiting to happen, just make sure we don't bother the salt level in the north atlantic current cause hell, we might all move into the top 1% of the populations houses on top of the hills who own 99% of the wealth. Did I miss anyone?

nutella

Fuck. Read all about it.

Love Nutella?

Great. Enjoy it. I don’t.

Well, yeah. I used to love it. Before, when I discovered it, I loved it, I even adored it. To the extent that I’d eat it straight from the jar. No spoon, just my fingers. I know, it’s not terribly hygienic. But it’s not all that bad… because after all, I don’t share my Nutella. A jar is for me. Just me. And it got empty really, really fast. Terribly addicting, isn’t it?

Terribly addicting indeed… but not surprising, because because the truth is that Nutella would contain monosodium glutamate , aka E621 ^[1] deeply hidden in the famous word ‘flavorings’. ^[2] You know, glutamate, the flavor enhancer that would stimulate appetite and maliciously destroy neurons^[3]… To this is added –  wait for it – a small dose of … plastic ! And yes, our famous spread contains DEHP , one of the most dangerous phthalates ^[4], which is usually used to produce packaging and has the nasty tendency to migrate into the product. Be aware that this unwelcome guest is banned in toys and cosmetics because it is considered a carcinogen and induces, uh … testicular atrophy. Nice, huh?

Fine, fine, I’m not telling you anything new when I mention that Nutella is 70% palm oil and refined sugar, remember that skim milk powder and whey? Ferrero has for long refused to say whether or not they come from animals fed with GMOs…

Oh, but wait, there’s hazelnuts and cocoa at any rate! Oh yeah, well, 20% of the finished product … not bad for a spread that should be composed of 2/3…

Fine, end of discussion. As for me, I say  Nutella is dying.

Check out the whole piece and how to make your own " good for your kids " nutella.

http://antigonexxi.com/recettes/a-la-table-du-petit-dejeuner/nutella-is-dead/

Fuck again.

The great party of human help...

Chris Sharma: Behind the Scenes from So iLL on Vimeo.

Track of the Day!

This will get you going tomorrow morning. Here is the vid and the link file ( right click, download linked file as )

PZ.

http://lsd-25.ru/uploads/Seven%20Lions%20-%20Polarize%20EP%20(2012)[VPR044][V0]/VPR044-003-Seven_Lions_feat_Shaz_Sparks-Below_Us-Smooths_DnB_Mix.mp3

Mike

My best friend Mike die two years ago today. Lingering in columbia, life styling to the extreme a world drawn against itself in everyday, he threw the arms up for everyone.

I spent the day today in a haze. Flashes of thoughts and dreams, memories imbedded deep in me. The drizzly air today felt abut right, to think about the love that is gone, and on the other, the love I am chasing, all only to fill some selfish dark whole I guess.

Truth is Mike had it right. Live fast, climb a Muerte, and leave no stone unturned. Try everything, at least once, and he always understood my little poetic, romantic escapades, and always encouraged them. He of all, knew what I was mad of. Maybe, that is why, he and I could spend hours not saying a word to each other, but then attack without warning in perfect harmony.

I was told something today that really stirred me. I was told I should not lay my heart on my sleeve so much. Care or what have you.

Mike. I think of you everyday. Every time I plug in my earphones to climb, or I take a right turn at the wheel ( remember? Hahahahaha ). Every time I see a heavy metal t shirt, or when I drink coffee. I hope you and my dog are happy somewhere, with lots of bitches, and women, cool shade, steep routes, large fields and endless forearm strength.

I wish you the best and the longest eternal life.

What you did in life, has echoed at least in mine, and will forever stay alive.

Love.

Ulric.

Here is a vid of Mike Climbing. Found it a few moments ago while hustling the photo docs.

Climbtech

ClimbTech Anchors for Rope Access from ClimbTech on Vimeo.

Dark Star

I woke to rain sparkling the roof of the camper this morning. Chimes at about 5am. Like most everyone does after taking the gunk out of the corner if their eyes', I picked up my cell to check msgs and sorts. These days my focus has been extremely narrow. My energies focused on one person in particular. This song is for her.

The world will continue forward on its axis Eva. The birds will sing this morning in your garden tree like yesturday and you will face some obstacles again as you will everyday from hence forth. The only thing that matters is how you face those chanllenges. Take a step forward, unsheath your sword and swing away at them without worrying about your blind spot, cause I got em covered. You might even feel my hand at the small of your back should you wither for a moment.

Breakaway from the pack, put on your game face and use that sharp weapon of iron in good manner.

XXX

Watch "Jonas David - Arrows" on YouTube

So iLL... LLLLLLLLLLL

So iLL: Holds Everywhere from So iLL on Vimeo.

Newfee on the job!

My boy joe cleaning in NewFoundland... Props...

Paige Claassen

Its not always about 15+. Its about doing what you love. My team-mayte Paige hittin' it big in Smith.

WHAT IF MONEY...

Nothing seems so simple anymore. Everything is up and running. Quicker and longer. More intense and faster orgasms. I leave you with this, tonight.

Do what you want. ALWAYS!

Sleep tight fair friends.

Whatever u do today...

It is sometimes an arduous process to validate my way of life. An auspicious moment revels in its own time in accordance to its maintained space. We all live it. Some of us to great things, magnificent things in the fight for a greater cause. I bow my head to the humans who drive without fuel, who search without a compass and who walk without a Map.


https://vimeo.com/58969916

No worries. :)

Can't wait to push this shit in Serbia :)


Pendulum from Riot House Production on Vimeo.

Lenny

Know one writes songs like this anymore.

Last day

Its my last day in Mex. Wrapping up some loose ends. Paying off tabs at various bars and restaurants, no brothels LOL. Its hard. Sitting in Cercado and I have to go back up and tell the family I am leaving. They know I come back every year, but every time, its a tear fest. I hate goodbyes.  Anyway. Doing some last minute prep for flights and such for the tour and I have to hit potrero to drop off some hangers and hardware for the crew that remains active there. A couple beers with friends and then I will be off. Its like an exicution. I am having my last meal, and what better then Tacos con Papas. Anyway. Yup. I am out. Next post will be from freezing MTL.

pz.

Best tacos north of DF. In Cercado.

This is form Paddy, an irish pub I got wiggled at a few nights ago. ouffffffff. Best food I've had in mex. no doubt.

:::

Croatia

Check this out. http://www.hiperaktiv.com

New route up-date! Feb 21 2013

Well the season in Mexico is slowly coming to an end. I thought I would update all the new routes we have put up so far. Marc is developing a new crag close to El Salto, I have yet to go. I feel more keen on the projects here. I will climb for a few weeks and then, with a few days left before the wedding and heading north, I will try to sink in the last of the 400 pieces I have left. Hopefully bring the tally up close to 40 for the season. So far, 19 have gone up. Here is the list a a few shots I took over the past few weeks. Enjoy. :)

( the pictures are taking too much time. I'll get em up as soon as I get a good connection, promise ).

Swing Swing  5.8 8 bolts 15m  FA/FFA Paya y Ulric Feb 1 2013

Hall of Fame 5.11d(R) 16 bolts 35m Bring your balls and a helmet for the         belayer. Loose and dirty, but really nice climbing on the upper part.

All Along the Watchtower  5.10+ 12 Bolts 30m Full Anchors

Ulricimartin 5.10a 10m 6 bolts Full Anchors. Robin named this route. I don't know why but its funny.

Naked Lunch 5.14b/c TBC 50m 6 bolts Climb Dante's Inferno and punch through the anchors for another 20m of power endurance through thin moves with delicate feet manouvers. Take a breather and hold off the pump for the runout to the anchors. Stellar. Sub/Full Anchors. Belayer beware. FA Ulric Dec 2012

Camino de Chino EXT. 5.14a/b TBC 45m 4 bolts.  Hike Camino de Chino and check  your fears at the door, crimp and throw all the way to the anchors. Whippers galor! Runout but uber safe. FA Ulric Dec 2012

Quesadilla de Oro 5.12+ 40 m 14 bolts Climb past the anchors of Quesadilla after trying to rest. Technical face leads to a jug slab, but don't count your pennies till you clip the anchor. Surprise Surprise. Full anchors. FA/FFA Ulric Feb 2012 

Midnight City 5.12d 22 bolts 40m Sub Anchor  Climb through the low crux at the thrid bolt with a thin pinch and throw. Then ease up and climb 35m of 11+ technical laybacks and thin slab climbing. Sub anchor to lower. Belayer beware. Can Lower off with a 80m. Full Anchors. FA/FFA Ulric Dec 2012

I Vision 5.11 20m 10 Bolts Don't expect to flash this. Nothing is what it seems. FA/FFA Ulric Dec 2012

EZ Street 5.11+ 20m 11 Bolts Interesting start to a super jug slab. FA/FFA Ulric Dec 2012

Carlos, POR FAVOR! 5.12c 19 Bolts 35m FA/FFA Ulric Feb 2013

La Nota de Musica 5.13- 16 Bolts 35m  FA Ulric Jan 2013

Freak Bamboo Butterfly 5.12+ 15 Bolts 35m  Climb the centre route to the top. Hard moves off the first bolts lead to nice easy climbing through jugs, pockets and tufas. FA/FFA Ulric Feb 2 2013

Sea of Tranquility 5.13c 15 Bolts 30m FA Ulric Jan 2013

Petite Mervielle 5.11c/d 25m 10 Bolts + Full Anchors FA Ulric FFA Ulric, Rodrigo y Eva Nov 2012

El Camelion Azul 5.12b 30m First four bolts of 3 and then tread right for 25 meters of steep tufas and knee bars to the delicate finish below the anchors. Full Anchors. FA/FFA Ulric Nov 2012(Please avoid touching the blocs in the gully on the left at the start of 3 and 4, A family of Large exotic tropically coloured Lizards live in that habitat. Hence the non direct start.)

Almost Believe That They're Real 5.12+ 30m Start on the right side of the centre wall, in a left facing Dihedral. Climb past jugs through the roof and punch it to the chains past the second roof. Full Anchors. FA Ulric Nov 2012

Pictures of You 5.12+ 45m Climb Almost Believe That They're Real and continue past the first anchors through the roof and thin headwall up top to Full Anchors. Belayer beware. FA/FFA Ulric Feb 2013

The Breathe of Silence 5.13- 40m Left most route. Three roofs and a run out headwall at the top with sloppy overhanging throws to the anchor. Belayer beware. Full Anchors. FA/FFA Ulric  Feb 2013

Edgardo getting his tattoo from Robin!

Shot from 7am in Cienega

Double Dot

Check out what the Kehls are making now. Great little hats and accessories knitted by hand by them ( which I would pay top dollar for a picture of Jason knitting ), custom for you.

I will have some for sale during the Tour this spring. So bring cash, cause this is not the olympics, so Visa is not sponsoring. :)

Check ou Double Dot on fb. I am sure the webpage is not far behind.

Demo Poster up-dated

YES! Its on! 

Venga Tio

BC

When I lived in BC in 05, I met Noemi aka Noe. We laughed, and cried, and got fucked over by some douche in NYC after selling Christmas trees for 35 days in the streets. But we had one thing in common, that kept us going, all those cold nights, hungry and bathroom-less mornings, trying to find a hole to shit in, sometimes using buckets in plain site of millionaires walking to wallstreet.

We had Ferry.

At fifty-three minutes, we called it the Christmas Song.

Thanks to youtube, now, you can all hear it.

Enjoy!

Ahhhhhhh urban

I might be out of the loop, but this is cool.

Tonight, for you! :)

Its sometimes hard to put into words how we feel. We travel time and future and silienty, at night, in the darkness behind our eyes, we conjure up these unavailable ideals. We think of the one long gone, the future ahead. The loves that have past us by, and thinking we shall never feel that way again, until one moment, when you least dream of the fact, it happens again. This is for you, tonight, on the wake of Valentines Day, know that someone really cares, but knowing you will be with another. Who really, would love to be there, for you. I hope you enjoy the following, cause tonight, this page, this blog, is not for the 2000 people who click on it every week, but just for you. If I could shut it down and only give it to you, I would. 

A song is always a great way for me to pass my feelings onto another person, so I dedicate this one, to you as well. Double shot, so to speak.

Take care fair chica. I hope this finds you, and finds you smiling

XXX

Nothing in our hearts can it beside, threw the flow of love that it deserves

It singles out the coldest, the deepest, the most fragile

Warms up the ice and depths of the eternal thaw, leaving lights in blurs

And it then fades with the light of thermic ever-last, staying, silent, proud.

Can it survive another winter, another nano second without

Will it live to see you stand and walk towards it

open, in dire need of something you do not know you need

But can simply stay silent, wishing for all man kind to witness this scene

Rap Anchors galor!

I am sitting at a freinds house, and on her coffee table is John Longs 1993 book on anchors.
I thought this was funny. Even in 1993, John new better then the FQME.

Check this out. First two pictures are from John Long's book. The other two, are the work of Super Dooper route setters form the Quebec federation of Climbing and Mountaineering.

This book was written more then 20 years ago. LOL

Man up.

Double Dot

Check this out. Hand made beanies, chalkbags and more from Kehls little mamasita.

Double Dot on FB

Old School.

Found some old pics I scanned years ago. Here you go!