Movie

Nice

Superman

I have been at the outer for hours. Looking for tracks for the next project. Youtube and Facebook.

Klemen strikes again. Check out his post.

Leo

I have posted many things in the past years. Some funny. Some rude. Some exciting and some stupid. Every time, I do it because I want to.

I wish, I did not have to post this today. It breaks my heart that even Leo's voice, will be taken with a grain of salt and ignored. No one man, no matter his name or position, can change what we are today, and where we will be tomorrow. I have no faith in my or your country and even less hope from governments around the world who see our climate as a hurdle and not a bridge. A gap between them and money, and not the hidden crevasse that it truly is.

:(

A little update

Got to take a few shots with the rig ( d7100 ). Still learning. I was stuck with a 10-24mm. Wish I had a change of lens for this shot. If you miss me on Instagram, here are a few hits.

Two sunday songs to skip church

Save link as...
I would rather be elsewhere today. But I am here. So might as well enjoy it. :)

Arcade Fire - Wake up
Download

Stay Alive - Jose Gonzalez
Download

Ghosts Of Paraguay - Hadron [Free Download]

I am chasing music every night. I spend hours going through youtube and sound cloud looking for kick ass songs from unknown artists. After the 5000$ per track demands of the big boys from the last video, I am going gorilla and using tracks that are license free for the upcoming Lebanon and Spain videos. Here is one really good atmospheric track.

5:02
11.54 mb

Ghosts Of Paraguay - Hadron mp3

Download

Climb Higher Foundation update!

Peeps. I am so fucking happy.

Big Agnes is shipping out about 100 lbs of clothing for kids. John @ Petzl has shipped out 17 S and XS harnesses for our trip too. Jesus @ Boreal has committed 20 pairs of shoes and shipping them today to me for pre packing for Lebanon. Climbtech gave me 500 hangers and loads of anchors for the trip, so I can put up as many as 50 new routes of moderate grades with safe anchors.

Maxim Ropes is outfitting me with 2 x 100m / 2 x 80m 9.1 Airliners and 3 x Pinnacle Blue 70m for Bolting and a couple spools to leave for the clubs there so they can take kids out safely. :)

Malek @ The Boiler Room is always keen on helping, and I am sure he will not let me down this year :)

JM @ Allez-Up is king. Always ready to help.

I have spent the last week negotiating with Turkish Airlines and they have finally agreed to allow me to travel ( I bought the ticket ) with 5 x 30 kilo bags for free so I can bring all the gear at no charge. So Psyched.

Ibex Clothing is outfitting me for the trip too, cannot discount those guys. Really cool wool underwear. SOOOOOO SOFT" :)

La Sportiva is sending me 20 t's and sweat shirts in small sizes. So fucking cool.

Boreal is supplying us with Shoes, about 20 pairs. Down side, I will only have em after my trip to Leb. But I will make it work :) Thanks so much.

I will make sure to show you all the gear that is sent my way before I leave for Beirut. A video would be nice,  maybe I will do that :) Stay tuned

If you have gear or want your company to support this, don't hesitate to contact me anytime.

I really, really, could not do this with the support of these brave and solid companies. So please, next time you shop, make sure to support those who support our sport, and our way of life and focus. What goes around, come around. Cheers peeps.

I love the green, Sparks doesn't it? LOL :) xxx

Most of you did not know this but...

Prana

Klemen

My boy klemen...Cannot believe I will be climbing and bolting with this machine this winter in Spain. Thank you boys.

Bala Bala! [teaser] from Stripe Visuals on Vimeo.

Pixs from the OR...

Jeff Jackson

One of  my climbing heroes and a person a look to for guidance once in a while, although he doesn't know it, wrote the following.

Thank you Jeff.

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/r-i-p-homero-gutierrez-villarreal-the-padrino-of-el-potrero-chico

The black is Back....

The Black Canyon: The New Black Project from Ibex Outdoor Clothing on Vimeo.

Trade show arrival

Arrived at 1am in slc after bumping into Klemen from Slovania on our flight from nyc last night. Lots of cool things on the way. Ill post some fun shit today as the day goes on. Beers at the big agnes booth at 4:30 today. Join me.

Pz

Ps. There is a little newbie. See if you can spot it in the pictures. :) for bloggers only.

J_star in the news again...

Off Topic...

This my be a little harsh for some of you, so if you feel uneasy, just exit the page.

I have been back in Montreal for a couple months now, and the cement feel of the city is settling in. I watch the news sometimes with supper, and all this crap is just overwhelming.

Here is my mission to my Government and its employees who seems to not be able to take any action or responsibility.

First. The city police is on strike. If I understood correctly, its about pension funds being cut by the provincial government.

This is really funny... Let me tell you why. Without going in too deep, the government is trying to cut the retirement benefits of the unionized police officer because it is simply afraid that it will not have any money to pay out the checks once all those poor boys and girls in blue start hitting the linx in white shoes and sporty hats and Cadillacs. On the same page, some old has been in a wheelchair is in court for allegedly stealing 700,000.00$ ( that we know of ) during her stint as Lieutenant General or some high ranking position that serves absently fuck all...

So on one hand, the Gov is causing this strike, by not punishing the rich bitch who stole from me.

POLICE. Here is an answer. Why not put her in jail, freeze all her assets and make sure when she comes out, that she can't get on welfare. PS. 700K might not sound like much, but arrest and seize all the money and property from every fucking politician that has stolen from you and I and your pension will be fine and dandy, hell, I think policemen should be the only ones stealing. At least they get shot by bullets, and not tomatoes...

Speaking of welfare. Why does it still exists. Don't get me wrong. A beaten women with 4 kids should be helped. Man, I would give you 5 times the check your getting, but we can't, cause those fat fucks across the street hustling smokes and weed to teens, they cash in that portion.

Why do we not cut welfare, or minimize it. Simple. Cause they are the only ones who vote.
Here is a solution. Pass a law that stipulates that to vote for an elected official, you must first participate in his salary. i.e; if you are on welfare, in prison or in other ways sucking on my tit, you cannot vote. Then, simply strike down the law of the pimp hand, and you will see a lot more of those welfare cases working at 7/11 at 3 am. guaranteed.

Speaking of prison, why do inmates not payback their times served. Why am I paying for judges and bailiffs and bars and steaks and school for the fuck who stole my car? I go to school and when I come out, I get a nice bill and 20 years of payments. Might as well try robing a bank and if I get caught I can go to college for free, and by the time I graduate I will have served my time, ate for free, and gotten lessons in love I would have missed at Dawson. Shit. Sign me up.

Speaking of signs. Anyone see the stop sign fly 40 feet in the air on youtube? Montreal aqueduct system is so old it was documented in black and white. I got a solution for you, Montreal. You love your bixies so much, why not have em year round. Build a series of bicycle streets, on top of the roofs of the mostly three story buildings in Montreal. Cover them up and heat em, so we can bike all over the city all winter or in the rain. Wait, if they are heated, could you not slip the water mains under the deck and bam..........simple to access, no breaks, new pvc. wow. And you got a heated, free, green transport system, all year, that costs NOTHIN!!!!

Nothin is what you will get pretty soon if you try to cross champlain bridge. Construction is set to start anytime before the next ice age, built by men who should be castrated for lack of brain, and designed by engineers who's only possible career was in government after barley making it out of whatever internet university classroom you went to. Thats right. you are all idiots. Building a bridge, with the same number of lanes as the old one, and expecting us to say nothing cause it will be artsy.

I am no engineer, but here goes. Why not build two bridges. that's right, 2. One on the left side of champlain, and one on the right side. You build a strong ass kick ass bridge on both sides, and just like your pervert uncle, you slowly, slip a big beam under there skirt of the old one and support it. Make it for bicycle or scooter traffic, whatever tesla comes up with next. But for fuck sakes, build it right.

Our winters are tearing at the bridges all over the city, expect for Victoria. Why? No concrete and no pavement. Build a bridge out of steel, make the driving surface porous to absorb and waste away all the crap away from the structure, and oh! I forgot about this, why not MAKE A ROOF. Thats right. Close that bitch off. End to end. That way, no snow, no rain, no concrete, no problems. and heh, looks, more then 10 lanes of drivable surface for all to enjoy. Who's gonna pay? We are. That's right. The rich banks will get an obligation to lend out the money for this bridge interest free, cause they have so much, and we are gonna pay it back by paying per crossing. And you say NO WAY, WE WON'T PAY... but why not. Here is an easy solution. Don't pay for car, or per passenger or per axle. NO. Pay per missing passenger. that's right. You have a 8 cylinder escalade mom, but you are alone, thats 2$ x 7 seats, 14$ please to go pick up your little one at math camp. You got a scooter, hell, I will pay you 1$ instead of charging you.

Speaking of pay tolls. Who is the TOO OLD OVER THE HILL TO UNDERSTAND TECHNOLOGY advising the minister of transport? you are making all these bridges payable, in one area and then another, and you could not for the life of you have one transponder for the whole province, at least, I say, the whole country. Is it that hard. We have this huge cool thing called the INTERNET and millions of companies making great strides in TECHNOLOGY, thats right, we even have planes now that fly to Europe. imagine that. Jesus. register a farm get a sticker, put it in the window. pass a hub, get charged. not to hard. fuck.

Thinking about planes, here is my last rant. How come none of those civil servants want to fly commercial. How come I can wait for hours in a ER, airport, traffic, starbucks, water fountain at the park and at the sauna for a blow job, but they can't fly commercial?  They fly private, or first class.

Then you get caught with your hands in your pants grabbing your dick during recess and you say, its not me, its him. All these public figures, elected on lies and bad hair, trying to show me that because they are on TV admitting the truth that its now ok. We somehow accept it. Oh, and kudos to " I would love to have 10 minutes in a room without windows with" Charest for setting up this great entertainment that is, Charboneau. What a joke. Its, come and tell us your sins and be absolved. All the money to build the bridge, fix the potholes, and make sure our cops are comfy at 90 is right there. No one is doing anything about it. We all watch it on TV and scream, but you scream at the TV. Anyone care to scream in public. I say we walk up to the house of whoever stole from me and I take back what they took. Flatscreen or bentley, its all good.

At 2$ a litre of gas, we better start robbing each other... Wait... What?

My five minutes are up.

Good night.

aihght!@

Tell me you are a climber and I will show you this...

Spain...

Clipcase

Sick.

I have a flat tire... anyone have a nail clipper?

J-Star Series coming soon....

La Quinta Santa Graciela

I once met a giant. He was huge. Maybe 7 feet tall if he was a foot. He stood in front of the

Mexican dusty prints that his worn, uncomfortable looking cowboy boots left behind him. He would not walk, for he was to wise to walk. He would strut like the playboy he wanted to be, and maybe, possibly, once was. He would talk in the lowest voice I can fathom remembering, a bass-line throat low that could level mountains. When he shook your hand, you had no choice but to surrender to his timeframe. If he liked you, or you were somehow part of his history, your hands could stay intertwined for minutes. Few got to shake Homero's hand. But those who did are now in mourning. a few days ago, Homero's heart gave its last beat inside the largest and most passionate, humble, courageous and loving man I have ever known.

Homero was the first and only Mexican to accept the likes of Jeff Jackson and Kurt Smith on his properties, years ago, during the golden age of Potrero. When every one else would snub and even refuse to serve food to the "gringos" with colourful haircuts, Homero protected them.

Homero's dream was to be that dream. To let you walk and run in his back yard. If you had a car problem, he would do his best to help, and usually, it would work out, minus a couple spare pieces here and there. No matter what time your flight was, he would be ready to drive you, even at 4am. Maybe, even, still a little hungover from a night out with his boys.

I have had many loved ones fall around me over the years, but few of them have actually gotten me to question my life, its patterns and trajectory. Homero, will certainly be missed in all his forms, mystic, legendary, stories or be it counts of heroism in the face of grand battles.

My friend, my father, my hero and the one and only man I could ever say I truly loved.

Good-bye my friend. Till we meet again.

But not yet.

But not as of yet.

Ulric

I sit here putting together the propositions for this winters travels and filming budgets for sponsors. Eva is laying beside, playing a game on the phone ( ouark #$%? ). I list all of the prodeal accounts for friends and book flights and hotel and cars for SLC. I try my best. We all try our best. And if we do what we love, once in while, you actually end up getting what you want.

All for you guys tonight.

enjoy.

J-Star

Nice to see some top tiers still have there feet on the ground, or atleast, no heads in the clouds above us all...

Morocco

Bolting and climbing in Morocco from Sam Elias on Vimeo.

So iLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL

So iLL: Make Your Own Holds from So iLL on Vimeo.

Seasons in Flight: The Sound of the First Season

Seasons in Flight : The Sound of the First Season from Ulric Rousseau on Vimeo.

Last days in flight...

Its done. The movie is done. Editing and all. Just fucking around with exporting. Finishing up my last babysiting gig with bruno and flying to Miami tomorrow with my love to meet the parents for the first time and get some r&r and also, I am outta bolts and hangers and waiting on my care package from climbtech.

Still thinking about the name for the movie... days of flight, seasons in flight, one percent... still thinking.

La Boca Update ( El Salto Mexico )

La Boca

Main Wall (Left to Right)

OK in the rain

^{Sun 11- 2pm}

^{1.             Lado a Lado 5.10c 15 Bolts 35m FA Ulric Dec 2013}

^{2.             Pino-Colda 5.10d 14 bolts 35m FA Ulric Dec 2013}

^{3.             Mojito 5.10d 14 bolts 30m Start 5 feet left of Cuba Libre and follow the steel up the grey face to obvious side pull blocks at the 4th bolt. Full Anchors. Ulric 2013 FA Paul Brenner/ Ulric Dec 2013}

^{4.             Cuba Libre 5.9 15 bolts 35m Start on the Climbtech hangers and follow the weakness to the top of the buttress. Please be careful when on ledges for loose pebbles. Superb. Full Anchors. FA Ulric Dec 2013}

^{5.             Alta Tension 5.13+/14-??16 Bolts. 37m. Start on stainless steel hangers of Num.6 to the ledge. Tread left at the fourth bolt. Follow the obvious overhung arete, tufas, laybacks and upper headwall face. Full Anchors. Ulric Dec 2013 Closed Project}

^{6.             War One 5.12d 25m New Stainless Fixe hangers following a right facing, right arching dihedral. A little runout Full Anchors. Paya 2012 FA Ulric Dec 2013}

^{7.             Lounge Puppy 5.13a 10 bolts 20m  Start on easy grey stone to the fourth bolt and the business stays with you until the very last move. Stellar. Alex Catlin 2001}

^{8.             Honey Bear 5.12a 20m Just Left of Hijo de Puta. Short but really featured dihedral leads to tufa pulling on easier ground. Often dismissed because it looks dirty but the stone is bomber. FA Unknown 98/99}

^{9.             Hijo de puta 5.12b 20m 8 bolts Classic pull. A little run out but uber safe. FA. Paul Irby, Winter  98/99}

^{10.          Fuerza Civil Project 5.14??? 30M 13 Bolts Obvious dihedral 10m right of Hijo de Puta. Ulric Dec 2013 CLOSED PROJECT}

^{11.          El Arte de Volar 5.12c 25m 12 bolts. Climb up the blocky face to the business. Shorter climbers will encounter a nice dyno/deadpoint to the hole at the 2nd to last bolt. Full Anchors. Ulric Dec 2013}

^{12.          El Arte de Volar EXT 5.14?? 40m 15 bolts (Climb El Arte de Volar, pass the anchors for three bolts and twelve more meters.) Small. Hard. Exposed. Flight time required. Full Anchors. Ulric Dec 2013 Open Project}

^{13.          El Tecolottito 5.12a/5.11c 2 pitches. FA Unknown}

^{14.          Unknown 11c 9 bolts. 25m Start on a big bloc for two clips. Step over the void onto perfect stone. Superbe. FA unknown.}

^{15.          The Sound of the First Season 5.12a 11 bolts 25m. Technical. Ulric Dec 2013}

^{16.          The Sound of the Second Season 5.14? 40m 6 more bolts past the anchors of First Season. Runout, steep, sustained all the way to the last bite. Can lower with an 80m or use First Season anchors as sub. Full Anchors. Ulric Dec 2013 CLOSED PROJECT}

^{17.          Mouchie Mouchie 5.11d 9 bolts. Start 10 feet right of No TENSION on the same bloc. Climb the face to the waving tufas and features. Amazing. Full Anchors. Ulric Dec 2013}

^{18.          La Derma de Oro 5.13a 4 pitches ( 5.11b,5.13a,5.12b,5.12b) FA James carse 97/98}

^{19.          Half Warp 5.9 25m 12 bolts. Full Anchors. Ulric Jan 2013}

^{20.          Aero Russia 5.11c 35m 14 bolts. Full Anchors. Ulric Jan 2013}

Carino's Wall (Left to Right)

NO in the rain

^{Sun 4- 6pm}

_{My dog passed on to heaven on january 29th 2014. This is an homage wall to him. i started bolting here that same day to keep my mind occupied. When you enter the boca, in the arroyo, carino lays in peace below a rising pine tree. Say hi to him and maybe he will bring you good luck :)}

^{1.         Arete de Plueré 5.11c 30m 12 bolts Full Anchors. Ulric Jan 29 2014}

^{2.         Mi Carino 5.9 35m 15 bolts Full Anchors. Ulric Feb 29 2014}

^{3.         Mi Corazon Full Anchors. Ulric Feb 2014}

^{4.         A mi lado, por la vida... Full Anchors. Ulric Feb 2014}

           Catlin's Wall

NO in the rain

^{Sun 4- 6pm}

           ^{Walk back towards town from Carino's Wall, and encounter three routes at the end of the wall. really nice on hot days.}

^{5.         Nalgas Perfectas (left finish) 5.12c Alex Catlin 2001}

^{6.         Nalgas Perfectas (right finish) 5.12d Alex Catlin 2001}

^{7.         Super Alien 5.9 Superbe. Long. Un-Sustained. Chains. Alex catlin 2010}

^{8.         Where's Waldo 5.11 Jason Nelson 2001}

Santo Bohorquez Wall (Left to Right)

OK in the rain

^{Sun 3- 5pm}

_{It took 5 days of cleaning, 10 days of anti-biotics and 2 shots of cortizon to get this wall up and the 300+ pounds of vines off the rock and away from the base. Nathan and I both got massive infections from the vines, I mostly in the right eye. We both learned how to shoot ourselves with syringes. The wall is now clean and offers the steepest tufa ridden and coolest moderates in el salto. Mike would be proud.}

^{1.             Traffic Warrant 5.10 Full Achors. Ulric Feb 2014}

^{2.             RockSaw Massacre 5.10 Full Achors. Ulric Feb 2014}

^{3.             Easyrider 5.10 Full Achors. Ulric Feb 2014}

^{4.             Dragon Fire 5.10+ 35m 15 bolts.Full Anchors. Ulric and Nathan Jan 2014}

^{5.             Radio Columbia 5.10+ 25m 12 bolts. Hard face and daheidrel to an easy ending under the big bloc. Full Anchors. Ulric and Nathan Jan 2014}

^{6.             Live from Bogota 5.12- 35m 15 bolts. Slab climb and angle to the left towards the roof. Pull the overhang after the rest and saddle up fo the headwall. Full Anchors. Ulric Jan 2014}

^{7.             Double Espresso 5.12c/d 30m 14 bolts. Climb the slab left of the looming bloc. follow laybacks and underclings to the bulge below the tufa roof. Pull the roof and hit the easy slab to the anchors. Full Achors. Ulric Jan 2014}

^{8.             Slipknot 5.10b 25m 12 bolts. Climb the slab right of the looming bloc. Simple. Climb to the anchors. Superbe. Easy. Full Achors. Ulric Jan 2014}

Carino Passes

On an early fall morning in Oct, 2013, a little dog started following me to the crag. He was fast and bright and decided, after a cold night huddled under my blankets, that he would protect me until he could no longer. He stayed by my side everyday and would not wander more then a feet feet from me at any given time. When I whistled, he would come running back immediately.

Carino was the best friend I could have. He protected me from rock fall and intuitively new when to stay away when we bolted. He had plenty of organic, non-bi product food, but would always sniff his way to some scraps on the floor.

I shared many days alone with him on the wall, or at the base, talking and laughing and playing. He would eat part of my cookies, but always leave me some. When I bought expensive meat, I would always cook him a nice piece and he would always get all the bones and fat. He would wake me in the middle of the night, sometimes Eva and I, if someone approached the van. He would do this more often when Eva was there, knowing, I guess, that he should protect her more then me.

He hated water, especially when I bathed him. But he would always forget the horrible moment and run back to me after 10 minutes, smelling good and clean.

Carino, like my first dog Ujiro, saved my life many times. And for that, I can never be more grateful.

I will never be able to have another dog. Carino was nothing short of the best dog I could have ever wanted, and nothing can ever beat his personality. He was alive, and while he was, enjoyed a good life by my side, or should I say, I had a good life by his.

On jan 29, 2014, he succumbed to a series of seizures that I cannot explain. Carino was acting a little funny all day, begging for more attention then usual. He would not stay in his seat while I drove nor would he stop barking at imaginary objects once arrived

back home. Around 10 pm he started shivering and a few minutes later, crippled by spasms, his little heart gave out. He was no older then 15 months. God took him away. He is now with Ujiro, and I am sure, they are looking down on me now and

hoping they could both share the front seat once again.

I buried you in your favourite climbing area, over a gloomy dark night and shadowed by a think fog just after midnight this morning. I walked with you in my arms, lifeless, and I cried the whole time, through the night, and tears still waterfall on my cheeks

right now.

You will always be by my side little buddy. Your seat will always be your seat, while we drive the open road. And I will always keep a good piece of meat for you at the table. You will be with me forever. For as long as blood courses through my veins, you will be my dog.

Love. Eternally.

Ulric.

Carino.

Nov 2012 - Jan 29 2014