Friday, December 30, 2011


Well its all about to end. Our one and only 2011 is going down, tomorrow, at Midnight, where ever you are. Its been a ruff year for me. A lot has happened, and its a little to dramatic to rehash the past, so lets focus on the present.

I have been in Potrero for 2 days. We climbed a few easy routes, drinking beer and laughing at each other yesterday for failing so badly on easy stuff. I spent the first part of the day, today, retrobolting Central Scrutinizer's first pitch, and hacking away at the rusted bolts to get pry them free. Kika ( Enrique ) helped me a lot and thanks for his patience cause it was a little hard. I added a first bolt that was stolen, but retained the same run outs to the first anchor so that the R rating still stands, with new anchors, chains and 4inch bolts. RARE! Raw. True.

I want to thank Maxim Ropes, Pusher, La Sportiva, Fixe, Hilti and So iLL for their support this year. I could not do all this without you. Bolting is expensive and every penny saved helps. Much LOVE!

I also put my drill to rest today. Its in its case, and not coming out again this trip. I told myself I would bolt until the new year and concentrate on sending for the first part of 2012.

I put up a few new pitches, nothing really worth mentioning. LOL. Here is the list of the years accents, lines and projects.

Many of the names feel a little religious, but please trust me, I am not converting. I just have been bolting alone, most of the time anyway, and Mikey's energy is all around me. I feel him everywhere, all day, with me. Butterflies fly so close to me on the wall, they land on my gear, I watch them, and I think its Mike saying hello, watching over me. Its a very powerful yet erie feeling. All the names on the latest routes, ALL OF THEM, are all in honour of my friend who is now with my dog in heaven, and shall remain there until I join em.

Tears fall from my face right now as I write this, I miss you both sooooo much.

I really wish the best to everyone for 2012, and if you can spare some draws, please send em over, cause I am OUT!

Nous, Les Fous!
5.13- 11 bolts - 25m
Weir, Quebec
FA/FFA Oct 2011

Tanpis pour Toi
5.13+ 9 bolts - 25m
Weir, Quebec
FA April 2011

Aveux, J'ai Deja Baisser dans un Confessionnal.
5.12c 6 Bolts - 10m
Cap des Pere, Quebec
FA/FFA Sept 2011

Angels Walk Among Us ( Angeles Camino con Nosotros )
5.12+ 11 Bolts - 35m
El Salto, Mexico ( Las Animas )
FA/FFA Dec 2011

Silent Killer ( Assasino en Silencio )
5.14? 17 bolts - 40m
Project still underway
El Salto, Mexico ( Las Animas )
FA Dec 2011

The First Step on Your Last Day
5.13a 11 bolts - 35m
El Salto, Mexico ( Las Animas )
FA/FFA Dec 2011

Todo o Nada ( All or Nothing )
5.14? 22 bolts - 50m ( Sub Anchors )
El Salto, Mexico ( Las Animas )
FA Dec 2011

Los Mariposas
5.13a 8 Bolts - 15m
El Salto, Mexico ( Las Animas )
FA/FFA Dec 2011

Murder Weapon
5.14a 8 bolts - 30m ( Extension to Bizzare Contact, 15m )
El Salto, Mexico ( Las Animas )
FA March 2011

Ungabunga X-Mas
5.13c 4 bolts - 40m 9 ( Extension to Ungabunga 10m )
El Salto, Mexico ( Las Animas )
FA/FFA Dec 2011

1 comment:

  1. Happy New Year Ulric! I had a butterfly land in my hand... Hung out for a LONG time looking at me! I feel Mikey all the time.... Thank you for keeping his spirit alive. I LOVE the route names! Love, Kit