Monday, January 28, 2013

Rap Anchors galor!

I am sitting at a freinds house, and on her coffee table is John Longs 1993 book on anchors.
I thought this was funny. Even in 1993, John new better then the FQME.

Check this out. First two pictures are from John Long's book. The other two, are the work of Super Dooper route setters form the Quebec federation of Climbing and Mountaineering.

This book was written more then 20 years ago. LOL

Man up.

Sunday, January 27, 2013

Tuesday, January 22, 2013


Vertige finaly confrimed. A little late so i added em on at the end, same day I fly into montreal from Halifax. Be on time AC. Also could not get JoeRockheads, which sucks. But I will go by and drop off some swag when I am in Toronto. So if you catch me in the hallway, hit me up.

More news to come on this post alone as we get closer, so stay tuned or connect on FB on the tour page here.

Ciao for now.


Sunday, January 20, 2013


Fuck shit damn hell of God. After a waiting almost 7 months to get back to mexico and the projects, I wreck a fucking pulley on a stupid warm up. I am on hourly ice and Celebrex for 2 weeks at-least. Time is ticking. I have until March 9th to get to the bottom of FA projects that are extremely hard and just as the fitness was getting to its peek I am sidelined. I've never been plagued by injuries in my life, and now, this! WTF. Sorry folks I am just super upset. I spent the last 18 months bolting and cleaning all these lines and took 4 months this winter to get them done and now BAM!.

Anyway. Shit. Off to miami to see the folks, heel a little bit and get some rest. I can't even go surfing. GODDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD>


This is what happens when...

Monday, January 14, 2013

The January Naked Affair!

Nothing spoils the grand finale of a trance set then watching 2 girls climb topless at the same wall your bolting at, but you are so far away that all you can see is WHITE! Finding the name for the extension to Dante's Inferno was easy. It was noon when I put in the last bolt and heard screams from the crags down below. Naked Lunch seemed an appropriate name.

I am at the last try for the send on the first of three 14 extensions now. Quesadilla de Oro ( Golden Quesadilla ) will be done tomorrow,providing I don't blow the dyno, and that's gonna check in at 13+ or 14a. Its sick. 40m on orange limestone. Bagley has picks of me coming off it below. No more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Its going tomorrow.

Off the crux of Quesadilla extention. Again. But soon, no more! :)

 Next up is the extension to Chino(13c) which will check in at about 14a/b. Can't wait to hang the draws on that. damn.

Anyway. Enough spraying. Heading to Austin on sunday for my meet and greet at the climbtech factory. I am soooooooooooooo stoked. Its gonna be nice to eat a what-a-burger once again. I miss em. This liquid diet is fucking harsh.

On the up side, we are looking at a new wall to start bolting next week. The crew is psyched, TED and his wife are looking good and everyone is now sending on a daily basis, keeping up with them is hard :)

The Maxim Airliner "Jet Stream" getting its work on!

Quesadilla de Oro ( Extention ) 13+ 40m. All the way!

Anyway. Here are a few pics and vids. Enjoy.

Photos are courtesy of Patrick "Annie" Bagley. Paging Dr. Bagley to the proctology dept.
Paging Dr. Bagley.

Lost one of those NewBalance shoes one night. Down to one pair of LS Boudler x. Its gonna be alright Ulric
Notice the Down. its like 5c Celsius these days. FREEEEEEEEEEEZING

The next wall to be put on the map!

Hiking out in the cold damp rain.

My girlfriend! LOL 

Centre of Las Animas. 14 and 15 projects up the center run for 50+ meters.

Osito. Little pup that nows follows us everywhere. He's up for adoption. Come get em!

The walk back from Las Animas. The long road to nowhere.

Rest days are always fun...

My rig.

Shot from the top of the hike in to the canyon.

Pat asked me to pose. I'm no poser, I guess. Dirty ass climber.

get out of my sun Bitch!

New england or Mexico?

I am not an alcoholic!!!!!!!!!!!

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

More on the FQME !

My fight with the FQME continues... FUCK. Even the governement thinks this shit is ok.

My answers to the reply is below. was I too harsh. Fuck that. I am kicking this up a notch.

You might want to use google translate...

------ Message transféré
De : Ulric Rousseau <>
Date : Tue, 04 Dec 2012 10:20:10 -0600
À : Ulric Rousseau <>
Objet : Re: Rép. : Re: Plainte envers la FQME

Mr. Wagner. Voici un dossier complet sur la FQME. Photo, vidéo, lien ver des forum avec des commentaire intéressant.

Voir les lien svp. Si il ne fonctionne pas, svp juste faire un copie coller dans votre bar a adresse pour accéder au page web.;#2606989

Voir les photo de la destruction massive de la FQME Enver l’environnement.

Svp aussi allez voir les video sure youtube.


Ulric Rousseau
514 688 4348


This is the reply letter sent to me by the Gov of Quebec!

This is the reply I sent him!

------ Message transféré
De : Ulric Rousseau <>
Date : Tue, 08 Jan 2013 17:46:09 -0600
À : Éric Wagner <>
Objet : Re: Plainte FQME - lettre réponse

Mr Wagner.

Merci beaucoup de votre attention de ce dossier.

Je ne suis pas satisfais de votre réponse.

Je comprend pas comment vous pouvez voir les photo et vidéo est être d’accord avec la destruction systématique de notre environnement aussi, rendre les voie des grimpeur in-sécuritaire. Avez vous écouter l’audio de ma rencontre avec la FQME? Nicolas Rodrigue lui même dis que les placement ne sont pas conforme.

Il y a jamais eu de accident a WIER.” JAMAIS” Pourquoi en 2012 on détruit la forêt pour une rescousse éventuel? AU Cap des Pere, il y eu un accident, invitant deux ambulance, pourquoi on détruit pas la forêts la?

Votre commentaire de “ bénévole” est quasiment la même que ce que la FQME ma donner lor de ma rencontre avec eu. Vous êtes d’accord de laisser des bénévole détruire nos ressources naturel, parce que ces des “ Bénévole”? Il ne sont pas tenue responsable parce que il sont pas payer? Dans quel monde je vie coup donc?

Peu être que le ministre de l’environnement est les mouvement environnemental verront tout sa d’une autre façon.

Je suis dessus de voire que mes dollar d' impôt vont a payer une personne ( vous ) est un organisme ( FQME ) si incompétente est négligente envers ces citoyen est leur propre source d’oxygène et ressources naturel. Vous allez dire quoi a vos enfant que il vont grimper des voie mal traiter a Wier? Si il ce blaise? Si quelque un ce blaise dans les année qui suive, vous penser pas que le journal de MTL vont recevoir tout ces dossier pour mettre tout sa au claire du jour pour le publique?

Je continue ma croisade ver votre direction. J'espère vous croiser un jour, puis vous montre, en personne, les danger que votre FQME pose au sin de notre sport, est, gouvernement, en parois.


Bonne journée.

------ Fin du message transféré

Friday, January 4, 2013