Thursday, February 21, 2013

New route up-date! Feb 21 2013

Well the season in Mexico is slowly coming to an end. I thought I would update all the new routes we have put up so far. Marc is developing a new crag close to El Salto, I have yet to go. I feel more keen on the projects here. I will climb for a few weeks and then, with a few days left before the wedding and heading north, I will try to sink in the last of the 400 pieces I have left. Hopefully bring the tally up close to 40 for the season. So far, 19 have gone up. Here is the list a a few shots I took over the past few weeks. Enjoy. :)

( the pictures are taking too much time. I'll get em up as soon as I get a good connection, promise ).


Swing Swing  5.8 8 bolts 15m  FA/FFA Paya y Ulric Feb 1 2013
Hall of Fame 5.11d(R) 16 bolts 35m Bring your balls and a helmet for the         belayer. Loose and dirty, but really nice climbing on the upper part.
All Along the Watchtower  5.10+ 12 Bolts 30m Full Anchors
Ulricimartin 5.10a 10m 6 bolts Full Anchors. Robin named this route. I don't know why but its funny.

Naked Lunch 5.14b/c TBC 50m 6 bolts Climb Dante's Inferno and punch through the anchors for another 20m of power endurance through thin moves with delicate feet manouvers. Take a breather and hold off the pump for the runout to the anchors. Stellar. Sub/Full Anchors. Belayer beware. FA Ulric Dec 2012

Camino de Chino EXT. 5.14a/b TBC 45m 4 bolts.  Hike Camino de Chino and check  your fears at the door, crimp and throw all the way to the anchors. Whippers galor! Runout but uber safe. FA Ulric Dec 2012

Quesadilla de Oro 5.12+ 40 m 14 bolts Climb past the anchors of Quesadilla after trying to rest. Technical face leads to a jug slab, but don't count your pennies till you clip the anchor. Surprise Surprise. Full anchors. FA/FFA Ulric Feb 2012 

Midnight City 5.12d 22 bolts 40m Sub Anchor  Climb through the low crux at the thrid bolt with a thin pinch and throw. Then ease up and climb 35m of 11+ technical laybacks and thin slab climbing. Sub anchor to lower. Belayer beware. Can Lower off with a 80m. Full Anchors. FA/FFA Ulric Dec 2012

I Vision 5.11 20m 10 Bolts Don't expect to flash this. Nothing is what it seems. FA/FFA Ulric Dec 2012

EZ Street 5.11+ 20m 11 Bolts Interesting start to a super jug slab. FA/FFA Ulric Dec 2012

Carlos, POR FAVOR! 5.12c 19 Bolts 35m FA/FFA Ulric Feb 2013

La Nota de Musica 5.13- 16 Bolts 35m  FA Ulric Jan 2013

Freak Bamboo Butterfly 5.12+ 15 Bolts 35m  Climb the centre route to the top. Hard moves off the first bolts lead to nice easy climbing through jugs, pockets and tufas. FA/FFA Ulric Feb 2 2013

Sea of Tranquility 5.13c 15 Bolts 30m FA Ulric Jan 2013

Petite Mervielle 5.11c/d 25m 10 Bolts + Full Anchors FA Ulric FFA Ulric, Rodrigo y Eva Nov 2012

El Camelion Azul 5.12b 30m First four bolts of 3 and then tread right for 25 meters of steep tufas and knee bars to the delicate finish below the anchors. Full Anchors. FA/FFA Ulric Nov 2012(Please avoid touching the blocs in the gully on the left at the start of 3 and 4, A family of Large exotic tropically coloured Lizards live in that habitat. Hence the non direct start.)

Almost Believe That They're Real 5.12+ 30m Start on the right side of the centre wall, in a left facing Dihedral. Climb past jugs through the roof and punch it to the chains past the second roof. Full Anchors. FA Ulric Nov 2012

Pictures of You 5.12+ 45m Climb Almost Believe That They're Real and continue past the first anchors through the roof and thin headwall up top to Full Anchors. Belayer beware. FA/FFA Ulric Feb 2013

The Breathe of Silence 5.13- 40m Left most route. Three roofs and a run out headwall at the top with sloppy overhanging throws to the anchor. Belayer beware. Full Anchors. FA/FFA Ulric  Feb 2013


Edgardo getting his tattoo from Robin!










Shot from 7am in Cienega

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